Archive for January, 2011

Walk in Odawara Shiroyama

Plum blossoms at Odawara Castle

While on a bit of a hunt for real estate recently I tried to track down an apartment I had seen advertised in Shiroyama, which is probably Odawara’s most expensive residential district. I hadn’t been there before so it was an interesting wander. It has quite a different feel to some of the other areas, thanks to having larger blocks of land allowing for spacious gardens and bigger dwellings. Also due to being on a hill, there are some rather nice views of Sagami Bay to be had, as well as glimpes of Odawara Castle from certain locations. It is nice to also stumble onto unexpected things like Okubo-jinja Shrine – rather small and not of any great significance, but I like how these little outposts of greenery and respite pop up here and there.

I didn’t the apartment I was looking for, although we later checked it out by inspection (and found it may have been very well suited as a massive and extravagant bachelor pad of, say, the late 1970s, but seemed to be well past its prime). But despite the cold weather I did find some nice flowers out already including plum blossoms at Odawara Castle.

I also discovered that Aoyama has a bicycle track that attracts gamblers and apparently some “seedy” elements (though they weren’t in evidence when I went past). What I did see in plenty of evidence was gross underemployment, as is not uncommon in some service industries in Japan, with each entry to the carpark having from about 6 to 10 people to wave people into it.

Sweet Japanese strawberries

I love a lot of the fresh Japanese fruit and vegetables and particularly the way it is presented. A lot of it is considerably more tasty than equivalent supermarket specimens back home.

Some is so good it is mainly used for giving as gifts, and the melons that sell for in the order of $100 a piece are a good example of this.

These delicious-looking strawberries were almost too hard to resist – but in the end the price did put me off. At about $19.50 for 9 strawberries it works out at a bit over $2 each. They may be large and still sweet and beautiful, but I was very satisfied with the smaller but still oh-so-sweet variety that were almost reluctantly being sold with a suggestion of “maybe they would make an alright jam?”

Planting onions down at the mini farm

Keira celebrating her recently plucked daikon

Hiromi and I planted out 150 red and white onions in the little family hatake (farm plot). They should be ready for harvesting in June, or thereabouts.

There is already a good variety of salad leaves including a lot of my beloved rocket, and we’ve been enjoying these fresh organic salads for breakfast.

Keira was keen to help too – managing to rake up some of the onions we had carefully planted. And pulling up some kabu (Japanese turnips) from which we make tasty pickles, as well as a large daikon (Japanese white raddish).

Looking back at the onions I planted, I could see I am not ready to take over the reins to be a fully-fleged Japanese farmer any time soon. Definitely not enough order in my rows and the whole thing looked a bit chaotic and haphazard. Still, Hiromi appreciated my efforts and I am sure they will taste just as good when the time comes for harvesting.

Wooden architectural house in Kanagawa

Les Aventuriers by Shun Hirayama Architecture

Our efforts to find a nice house haven’t progressed, mainly because there just isn’t much around that is 3 or more rooms, at least 70 sqm (and preferably a fair bit more) and relatively new (or, at the very least, “with character”).

That isn’t to say I haven’t stumbled onto an occasional gem. This house is nearby and sadly not on the market, but it’s sufficiently interesting architecture for me to be salivating like a Pavlovian dog on that basis alone.

The house was designed by Shun Hirayama Architecture, a Tokyo firm, and the project is called Les Aventuriers.

I love the extensive use of renewable timbers inside and out and the way the house feels so warm, contemporary and homely inside despite the exotic exterior. The site is quite steep, affording great views but no doubt presenting design and building challenges. I read that the building has ten different floor levels!

More photos and floor plans available from Shun Hirayama Architecture. Now if someone could just find us one of these to live in, pre-built. Even pre-loved would be acceptable!

Photo credits: Daici Ano / Makoto Iwanami / Katsuhida Kisa FOTOTECA / Shun Hirayama Architecture

Hardly egg-selent: in search of a happy egg

Eggs in nest

Picture via Creative Commons via Awesomesauce Studios / flickr

I often start the day with an egg, and value their taste and nutrition but also I’m concerned about the welfare of the chickens doing the laying.

Australia has an increasingly good range of eggs available for sale, with several options offering organic, free range, bio-dynamic and so on. We have become accustomed to this being our “normal” household eggs. The fact that such eggs are available in reasonable quantity even in mainstream supermarkets now means that we are by no means alone in seeking out “happy eggs”.

In Japan, without being able to read the fine print of the various types of eggs, (and/or due to being someone’s house-guest), I haven’t had a lot of say in what sort of egg to consume. So for this prolonged stay I thought I ought to take steps sooner rather than later to solve this little “egg” issue, which I hoped would be a simple one.

Well, it transpires that finding a “good egg” in Japan if no easy task. That is not to say they aren’t tasty. In fact, I would say a basic Japanese egg tastes better than what I remember a basic Australian egg tasting like, and they have to have a consistency and cooking properties that “feel” like a better class of egg.

So I started to ask some questions. I assumed price was a reasonable indicator of quality and also – more importantly – of the welfare of the birds involved, since more square metres per bird, better food, organic farming, etc, would all have a natural tendency to push up the price. On that basis, I chose the most expensive eggs available at the local Robinson’s supermarket to see what I could find out.

My first surprise was that all the eggs were blue! I hadn’t seen naturally blue eggs before, but it turns out certain breeds do in fact lay blue eggs at times, and the blue colour permeates right through the shell (unlike with a brown egg, where only the outside is coloured). Blue eggs (as well as more greeny coloured ones) commonly come from a South American breed of chickens known as Araucanas.

Blue egg shells

Inside a blue egg shell. Creative Commons by Jannie-Jan / Flickr

The second surprise was that despite these eggs costing around four times the price of the regular eggs, they’re produced in the same way. Conclusion: these are an egg fashion accessory for people who happen to like blue or something a bit out of the ordinary.

It reminded me of the availability of double-yolk eggs in Japan. Since getting a “double-yolker” is considered to be good luck, some bright spark decided it would be a good thing to screen all the eggs and separate the doubles out and sell them in “double dozens”. These would make a good gift, I imagine.

We then tried a nearby shop that had a small-scale rural outlet feel to it, pretty pictures of farmers and grass and eggs and so on. “Yes!” I thought. Close to home, a good little micro-business to support and ethical eggs. What more could one want? Well, again there were eggs of different price levels, including some that looked sufficiently expensive to be on par with the best quality Australian eggs. But it turned out from the glossy brochure that these weren’t all they had cracked up to be: they use pesticides only when necessary, which still doesn’t sound great, and all of their eggs – even the very expensive ones – are from caged hens.

Unwilling to be beaten, when next at the local JA outlet (an agricultural cooperative), I discovered in the far corner that there are in fact free range chickens in Japan. Eggselent! The Senior Egg Man had gone to roost for the day, so I couldn’t find out whether they were organic or not – in all likelihood, I doubt it – but I’ll try to look on the sunny side and say it’s a good start.

Until nest time.

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Bali modern house at Shimosoga

Mt Fuji from Shimosoga Plum Orchards Japanese Woodblock print by Kaiseki

Woodblock print by Jokata Kaiseki (1882 - 1966) of Mt Fuji from a Shimosoga Plum Orchard

As the house hunt is now back on again, I am furiously churning through countless painful web searches to find possible place to live.

Shimosoga is a town nearby that is perhaps most notable for the Soga Bairin Plum Orchard, which will soon be in beautiful blossom (in around February). There are around 35,000 white flowering plum trees. I have never seen them in full bloom but hope to do so this year. It is a scene that has been admired for a long time, particularly since the hillside location of Shimosoga also affords it impressive views of Mt Fuji and Hakone.

All in all, Shimosoga has a nice semi-rural feel without being too far away from things, but not much real estate seems to come up there.

One pet peeve I have with Japanese real estate sites is that the photographs are always tiny. We couldn’t work out why – and it is such a turn-off when we are so spoilt with the high quality professional images from the Manly Daily filling up our iMac screens or the glossy pages spilling out over the floor on a lazy Saturday morning. Yoko had an idea though that the small images might be because a lot of Japanese Internet use actually happens by keitai (mobile phone) and thus there isn’t much point in having large images (and they may in fact slow things down).

Who knows, but by popular request from back home to see some of the local architecture and homes we are considering, I present the “Bali modern” home with pint-sized images ripped off from the agent’s web site. It looks somewhat intriguing.

The floor plan image was so small as to be completely useless, so I have not reproduced it here. Actually, on second thoughts, I have added it just so you can see how useless it really is. I can more or less conclude that there is a red triangle that probably points south (the favourable sunlight direction, remembering we are in the northern hemisphere now); and that there are two storeys that are more or less square shaped with one smaller than the other (hopefully the top one).

Lunch at Wakatake

Wakatake OdawaraToday we had lunch at Wakatake, Odawara (わかたけ小田原). The restaurant name means “young bamboo”. It can be found across the road from the unfortunately named FAG Motors car dealership.

I have been there several times before and find the food to be basically ok. Today I had hot udon noodles in soup with a bit of spinach, tempura and a gratuitous egg thrown in, for ¥900 ($11). We had some good tsukemono (Japanese pickles) and tofu too.

For dessert, I went for a green tea pudding with chestnut and red beans on top for a mere ¥250. Actually I mainly wanted to photograph this rather than eat it. Nonetheless it was quite tasty, although rather more sweet than necessary. I am not too happy with the photos, since they are mere iPhone snaps and as usual I was kicking myself a bit for not taking one of the better cameras along for the ride – always a trade-off between bulk and image quality.

Perhaps more interesting to me than the food at this place is that has a cute garden Japanese outside and some nice interior architecture that wouldn’t go astray in my future Japanese-themed fantasy house. The tables are appealing solid slabs of timber. (Less appealing is having to sit at them for an extended length of time when you are a tall gaijin…)

As usual I also found myself enjoying the plates themselves at this place. They seem to have some quite nice pieces.

While we were here we got a call from the real estate agent to say the owner of the place we thought we were moving too has decided we are not worthy. A shame, since I had finally started to settle my expectations downwards far enough to consider being able to live there. But almost certainly their loss not ours in the long run.

Five towels and a loaf bread

We are just back from the car dealer where we handed over the documentation providing we have a parking spot. Poor Keira was very disappointed that once again our little blue Prius wasn’t coming home with us just yet.

I, meanwhile, was happy to bask in the limelight and complements that my extraordinary good looks and grasp of the English language seem to bring at this place. “It’s like being on a movie set…” says our sales guy with a genuine smile).

Apart from actually paying for the car (which the dealer still seems to imply is not such an important issue), the next exciting step we have to look forward to is our entry in the weekly number-plate lottery. As I wasn’t having enough fun with all the hoops to jump through to get this car, I thought it would be fun to add yet another and opt for personalised plates (such as they are – just a selection of the pattern of 4 numbers). As I chose a popular pattern, it wasn’t available “on the spot” and my choice gets put into a lottery of sorts where I will compete with other hopefuls next Monday in a battle to obtain “8888″ plates. Exciting huh?

On previous visits we enjoyed free cold orange juice and green tea (not mixed together) with copious ice, and even an embroidered towel as a special parting gift.

Today must have been a quiet day or our man was feeling particularly generous as we were thanked in a most generous – though unusual – manner: with five towels and a loaf of bread.

A house, a car, and a lot of red tape

Last week we managed to promptly acquire a house and car within the space of a few hours. Actually, I should qualify that a little, as we are yet to actually lay our hands on either due to some bureaucracy – some of it expected, and some which is unusual to Japan and I knew about from prior research but is interesting to pass on.

Firstly, to the house: it’s a compromise – not in the mountains, not large, without a garden, not traditional Japanese, and a fair way from the nearest train stations (smack bang in the middle of two, so a long walk to either, although not all that far from the track itself).

But on the bright side: it’s not too far from Yoko’s parents, it is almost brand new (2 years old, but we think no-one has lived in there before us), overlooks some adjacent small farming land, is about 1 km from the “beach” (such as it is), and has a reasonable distance outlook of the surrounding hills.

It is also very near to the National Printing Bureau Odawara branch, which is where a lot of Japanese bank notes are printed. Apart from being a mildly interesting landmark, and having very lax-looking security, the site is famous as it opens its grounds during the annual sakura blossom season so people can enjoy the many beautiful cherry trees there.

Most of the red type to do with the house has been of the expected type, but it’s worth noting two small oddities. Firstly, there is a reward fee payable to the agent, usually a month or two’s rent equivalent. (By comparison, in Australia, the agent’s reward would be opaque and buried in the monthly rent and perhaps 7% of each monthly payment.) There is also a “key fee” here, which is essentially just some gift money to the owner. We managed to get out of this, which was nice, and instead pre-paid a small cleaning fee for when we move out (to cope with the many riotous parties we intend to host).

The final strangeness with the house is that as neither Yoko or I are working, we have retained the services of a third party guarantor company to act on our behalf – essentially to verify that we are good people and will pay the rent. Oddly, they seem happy enough to do that without actually asking anything much of us in return. But who am I to complain.

Now on to the car. Keira specified we had to have a blue car, and I wanted a green one (with respect to its environmental credentials at the very least, if not it’s colour). And as luck would have it we found a perfectly coloured Prius and snapped it up. In Australia, we would pretty much show some ID, hand over some cash and be on the road.

Here, about a week in, we have…

1. Chosen the car (yay – the easy part)

2. Asked for a sample design to be made up representing our surname, from the stamp shop

3. Approved one of several designed in step 2

4. Waited for the offical stamp (signature equivalent) to be made up, per steps 2 & 3

5. Taken the stamp to the local City Hall to register it as our official signature

6. “Signed” the car acquisition documents using the new signature

7. Looked for a parking spot*

8. Signed for the parking spot (with the new seal)

9. Gone to the police station to obtain a stamp on the parking spot permit

10. Delivered the parking spot permission to the car dealer (due to happen today).

At this point, I was hoping to pick up the car today, but I realised we haven’t even got around to paying for it yet. That has it’s own set of fun to do with local bank accounts, although that is meanwhile all sorted now and all that remains is to transfer some money.

So to jump back to point to point 7 for a moment, you are not allowed to buy a car in Japan until you can prove you have a designated place to park it. Since there is no street parking allowed, this makes some sense.

However, it turns out there is a bit of a grey market going on with parking permits, as sometimes people will obtain a permit for a car spot, then purchase a car, but end up parking somewhere else entirely: for example on the property of their house which is too small to have a legitimate car space.

Joyous pissing and the toylet

Toilet sign

We had an unimpressive Chinese lunch today – but it was somewhat made up for by the attached sign indicating the route to the toilets. The ladies have to make do with round arms and a triangular body, but look at the happiness of those lads! Off they go with arms up in the air celebrating all the way to the loo. I was worried that it was going to be a “no hands allowed” urinal, based on the picture, but this didn’t seem to be the case and those that had gone before me appear to have managed to aim okay.

Which leads in to the next topic – the “toylet”.

By amazing coincidence (I promise), on the way home I happened to read that Sega has just installed some special urinals in selected Tokyo metro stations on a trial basis, calling them “Toylets”.

These feature ads, which is maybe not so innovative, but the real drawcard is likely to be the four games: check how hard you can pee, erase graffiti by peeing in different directions, and a multiplayer game where you compete against the previous user of the urinal (probably slightly better than competing against the live person standing shoulder to shoulder with you). There’s also a game where the pee pressure acts as the wind trying to blow up a girl’s skirt – “the harder you pee, the harder the wind blows”.

Sega Toylet

Read more about it at Wired Magazine: Sega Installs ‘Toylet’ Games in Japan’s Urinals